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What is Ectoin?

Ectoin is a substance that is found in many bacteria, especially in large proportions in the so-called halophilic (salt-loving) species. It protects these bacteria against extreme conditions such as UV radiation, high salt concentrations or temperature fluctuations^[1].

What is Ectoin chemically ?

Ectoin is a so-called cyclic amino acid, i. It is a ring shaped amino acid. Dissolved as zwitterion, the carboxylic acid being negatively charged and one of the nitrogens positively charged. This property accounts for most of the effects of Ectoin. It has a strong hydratating effect, which is transferred to surrounding molecules, so u.a. on biopolymers such as proteins and the DNA. It does not bind itself, nor does it enter the cell itself, which does not interfere with metabolism^[2].

What are properties of Ectoin?

The Ectoin moisturizes through hydration, and stabilizes the structures of biopolymers. It is produced by fermentation (Fermantativ), with the help of Halomonas elongata bacteria. It is used in medicine for irritation and inflammation of the skin and mucous membranes to relieve them. It is also used in cosmetics to protect the skin from stress-related damage, e.g. UV radiation, drought or fine dust to protect. People with ectoin hypersensitivity should avoid using ectoin, otherwise side effects may occur with the exact opposite effect, including: strong burning on the skin. In biochemistry, ectoine is also used to obtain proteins, nucleic acids and other biopolymers [3].

What do ecto-containing cosmetics do and are they really helpful?

Kosmetika mit Ectoin können Falten mindern, und die Entstehung neuer vermeiden. Sie spendet der Haut Feuchtigkeit und schützt sie vor Umwelteinflüssen. Ebenfalls lindert Ectoin Hautreizungen und Entzündungen, ganz ohne in den Stoffwechsel einzugreifen. Jedoch sollten Menschen mit Ectoin Überempfindlichkeit Kosmetika mit Ectoin meiden. So empfiehlt sich vorab zu klären ob man eine solche Überempfindlichkeit aufweist, bevor man Ectoinhaltige Kosmetika verwendet. Weist man eine solche Überempfindlichkeit nicht auf, so hat Ectoin quasi keine Nachteile^[4].

Sources:

Wikipedia[1][4]

Scientific article on the cell-protecting properties of Ectoin^[2][3]

What are phytosterols?

Phytosterols or phytosterols are substances of the sterol group. They occur exclusively as esters and glucosides in plants, and their richest parts are fat. Structurally they resemble cholesterol, which is present in all humans and animals^[1].

What are the chemical properties of phystosterols?

Phytosterols belong to the group of sterols, which is a subgroup of steroids. They are all so-called polycyclic (poly-multiple / cyclic-ring) molecules, where the phytosterols are alcohols. They are similar to cholesterol, as well as the sex hormones testosterone and estrogen. It occurs only in plants (phyto - vegetable), and there in the fat-rich parts, such as the seeds^[2].

What are the properties and uses of phytosterols?

Phytosterols are used to lower blood cholesterol levels, while stimulating the production of cholesterol, increasing the total amount in the body, but binding it down, which lowers the cholesterol concentration in the blood. As a negative effect, phytosterols may inhibit the absorption of fat soluble vitamins (e.g., A and E), which should prevent pregnant women, nursing women, children up to 5 years, and those with phytosterinemia from phytosterols. Phytosterols are also used medically to reduce skin irritation and itching. The most common phytosterol we ingest through diet is β-sitosterol at 65%. In cosmetics they are used as emulsifier [3]

What is cholesterol and what does it do?

Cholesterol is an important component of the cell membrane, it increases its strength and helps to guide messenger substances into the cell and out of the cell. The body also converts cholesterol to the sex hormones estrogen and testosterone. The body produces 90% of its cholesterol itself. Increased cholesterol levels can lead to heart attacks and gallstones, so a balanced diet is important to keep cholesterol levels at a healthy level. It has long been investigated whether low cholesterol levels are responsible for a higher degree of violence, poorer memory, increased levels of stress and also the frequency of nightmares^[4].

Sources:

Wikipedia^[1]

Report on the errors of cholesterol^[4]

Scientific article of the Institute of Nutritional Physiology on phytosterols^[2][3]

 

What are ceramides?

Ceramides are a subgroup of sphingolipids, and they make up our double lipid layer. It has different types, of which the ceramide I type accounts for most of the horny layer, the outermost layer of skin^[1].

What are ceramides chemically?

Ceramides consist of four parts, sphingosine as a "head", a fatty acid as a "base", an amide as a linker and a residue in place of a hydroxide group on sphingosine. This residue can be a hydrogen - ceramide, a saccharide - glycosphingolipid, or a phosphocholine - sphingomyeline. Ceramide I is a fatty acid that binds linoleic acid as a fatty acid, so it has a lack of this fatty acid with a sub-production of ceramide I, and thus an imbalance in the horny layer, serious consequences for health and skin appearance. In addition, it strengthens the hair structure by better bonding the dandruff of the hair strands^[2]. 

This double-lipid layer keeps foreign bodies from penetrating the body and also protects the skin from drying out. Ceramides are formed by first sphingosine with serine and an acyl-CoA, produced by the coenzyme A, it follows the amide esterification with a fatty acid to ceramide. The three best known types of ceramide can be determined by the inclusion angle (α) of the two chains. For example, α = 0 ° Type A, 0 ° <α <180 ° Type B and α = 180 ° Type C. The sphigosine base and the degree of hydroxylation of the Fatty acid decide the further name [3]. The ceramides also play a role in the mode of action of antidepressants [4].

Why are they in cosmetics?

If the body does not produce enough ceramide in the skin, it will cause it to dry out, as well as hypersensitivity (atopic dermatitis) or psoriasis. Ceramide I added to cosmetics can balance this balance of the skin and protect it from the effects of missing ceramide^[5].

Sources:

Wikipedia^[1][5]

Scientific article on ceramides in dermatology^[2][3]

Scientific article on ceramides in neuroscience^[4]

Image sources: Wikimedia Commons, Flickr. All image rights go to the owners of the images.

What is collagen?

Collagen is a protein that only occurs in multicellular organisms. It is a structural protein that acts as a scaffold for inelastic fibers such as tendons, ligaments, bones, cartilage, and subcutaneous tissue layers, which are largely composed of a mixture of collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid. It accounts for around 30% of all proteins in the human body^[1].

How is collagen formed?

Collagen is a so-called triple helix protein, i. That three separate strands of pro-collagens (collagen precursors) come together to form a structure. It is stored in the reticulum, a branched system of channels and cavities for calcium and carbohydrate storage, by enzymes, with the help of ribosomes (complex macromolecules of RNA). Here, first amino acids such as lysine, glycine, proline, hydroxyproline, and some more bound to chains, with the help of coenzymes and ascorbic acid (vitamin C). The resulting single strands of pro-collagene are bound by enzymes with hydrogen and disulfide bridges in their triple helical structure [2].

What are the properties of collagen?

Collagen makes up the majority of the lower skin layer with elastin and hyaluronic acid, and gives structure and strength to bones, cartilage, tendons and ligaments. In the single strands, every third amino acid is glycine, and the three strands are held together by lysine and proline side chains. It has a mass of between 115 and 235 kilodaltons (115-235 kg / kmol), making it a rather large macromolecule. A lack of collagen or elastin causes wrinkles. It also plays a crucial role in biomineralization, involving the process of minerals and trace elements in biomolecules (e.g., calcium and phosphorus in bone and teeth)^[3].

How do you get collagen?

Collagen is found in the lower skin layers of farm animals such as pigs and cows, resulting in collagen from cowhides (leather) and pork rinds. Here to 70% from pigskin. There are no non-animal ways to obtain collagen, since neither fungi nor plants nor unicellular organisms are able to produce it [4].

What are the benefits of collagen?

Collagen is a protein and can thereby be denatured, this denatured form is called gelatin. This gelatin is e.g. in food technology as a gelling agent and in pharmacy with as a container in the form of hard and soft capsules. Collagen is used in cosmetics and pharmacy as an anti-aging product, thereby filling the gaps in the tissue causing wrinkles. There are cosmetic products such as creams containing collagen, and concentrates of collagen in the pharmaceutical industry^[5].

Is collagen such a miracle cure as it is touted?

There is no doubt that collagen helps to fill the lower layers of the skin and fight against wrinkles, even proven medically. However, this applies only to ingestible concentrates, which are taken orally or intravenously [6], dermal application is the problem of large macromolecules again. Such large molecules can not be absorbed by the skin, thereby reducing or even nullifying their actual effect [7].

Sources:

Wikipedia^[5][6][7]

Scientific Article on Collagen^[1][2][3]

Articles for the production and use of gelatine ^[4][5]

What are vegetable oils and fats?

Vegetable oils and fats consist of fatty acid esters, so-called triglycerides, as well as secondary substances such as riboflavin (vitamin B2), folic acid (vitamin B9), tocopherol (vitamin E), squalane, terpenes, minerals such as sodium, potassium, magnesium, iron and zinc [1] , as well as essential amino acids such as tyrosine, phenylalanine, leucine and lysine. Whether and how much of these substances are present varies from plant to plant.

What are triglycerides?

riglycerides are so-called esters of fatty acids and glycerin. They are formed by dehydration of molecules and are characterized by the fact that they bind two molecules via an oxygen. These bonds can be cleaved by acidic addition of water or by saponification to produce either the fatty acids or their fatty acid salts [2]. Triglycerides with multiple (polyunsaturated) fatty acids are more fluid, while triglycerides with low to no unsaturated fatty acids are more likely to be solid.

What are fatty acids?

Fettsäuren sind lange Kohlenwasserstoffketten, welche mindestens eine Carbonsäuregruppe besitzen. Sie sind alle schwache Säuren und keinerlei vergleichbar mit der Säurewirkung von z.B. Salzsäure. Es gibt sehr viele, mal mehr, mal wenig unterschiedlich. Generell kann man unter „gesättigten“ und „ungesättigten“ Fettsäuren unterscheiden, hierbei stehen die Bezeichnungen für Doppelbindungen im Molekül. Fettsäuren ohne Doppelbindungen bezeichnet man als „gesättigt“, Fettsäuren mit Doppelbindungen als „ungesättigt“.

Fatty acids which are polyunsaturated are rather fluid, saturated fatty acids are rather solid [3]. The most common or most found in cosmetics fatty acids are stearic acid, palmitic acid, lauric acid, oleic acid, erucic acid, linoleic acid, arachidic acid and caproic acid [4]. Also, there are fatty acids that the body can not produce itself, yet needs such. the omega-3 fatty acid. It is one of the essential fatty acids of the body that he does not make himself, but on the food intake. They are called omega-3 fatty acids because the last double bond of the polyunsaturated fatty acid, from the carboxylic acid, is 3 carbon behind the last carbon single bond (CC) (This is called omega, since the single bond, as the omega sign in the Greek alphabet last). One such herbal omega-3 fatty acid is alpha-linolenic acid. Omega-3 fatty acids are metabolized for energy, and are used to produce so-called Series 3 prostaglandins, which are responsible for anti-inflammatory. Their metabolites are also needed to regulate blood pressure, control blood clotting and the immune system, and maintain a balanced heart rate [19].

What are the secondary substances in oils and fats?

Secondary substances in vegetable oils and fats include vitamins and minerals, e.g.

-Tocopherol, the vitamin E, which has the task in the body to protect against oxidative stress^[5],

-Riboflavin, vitamin B2, which is used in metabolism as a starting material for the production of antioxidant coenzymes^[6],

-Squalan, a terpene that softens and smoothes the skin^[7].

Minerals are e.g. 

- Potassium, which is important for the skin, kidneys, nerves and brain^[8],

- Calcium, which is important for blood, teeth and bones^[9],

- Magnesium, which is important for the arteries, heart and muscle^[10],

- Phosphorus, which is important for teeth, bones and the brain^[11],

- Iron, which is important for the blood, nails and skin^[12],

- Zinc, which is a component of many enzymes, and is essential for the metabolism of sugar fat and protein^[13]

What are the properties of vegetable oils and fats?

The triglycerides are split on the skin, releasing the fatty acids and glycerin. Many fatty acids have anti-inflammatory and protective effects against oxidative stress. In combination, they can firm the skin, strengthen the tissue, strengthen the barrier functions of the skin, protect against water loss, as well as pigmentation spots, counteract both overpigmentation and underpigmentation, and loosen cornification of the skin. They can make the hair softer and smoother and contribute to a naturally beautiful shine, and make the hair healthier overall^[14].

Which oils and fats are used in cosmetics?

Frequently used oils are e.g. Jojoba, sesame, argan, avocado, almond, and apricot kernel oils, less exotic, yet often-used oils are e.g. Olive oil and rapeseed oil [15], however, these are just a few of many different oils used. Besides oils, fats and butters are also popular, e.g. Cocoa and shea butter, or coconut oil or coconut oil [16]. They all have different properties, and in the right proportions, they make cosmetics with extraordinary effects.

How are vegetable oils and fats extracted or produced?

Pflanzenöle können auf mehrere weisen gewonnen werden, so z.B. durch das Pressen von Biomasse entweder heiß oder kalt, oder durch Extraktion mit Lösemitteln. Diese Gewinnung und die darauf folgenden Aufbereitungsverfahren bestimmen die Bezeichnung und Inhaltsstoffe der Pflanzenöle. So ist ein Öl welches kaltgepresst (unter 60°C), und nicht raffiniert wurde „unraffiniert“, „kaltgepresst“ und „nativ“, wobei nativ für ein naturbelassenes Öl steht, welches noch so gut wie alle Wirkstoffe besitzt. Ein raffiniertes Öl hat im Gegensatz so gut wie gar keine Sekundärstoffe mehr. Raffinierte Öle sind weitestgehend geruchs-, und geschmackslos, jedoch sehr lange haltbar und universal einsetzbar. Unraffinierte Öle sind dahingegen weniger lange haltbar, haben jedoch ihren typischen, Geruch und Geschmack, sowie den Großteil der Sekundärstoffe behalten. Sie werden jedoch, um die Haltbarkeit zu verlängern gedämpft, wodurch ein Teil der Sekundärstoffe verloren geht. Native Öle sind kaltgepresste Öle, welche im Gewinnungsprozess keinem weiterem Schritt zur Verbesserung der Haltbarkeit durchlaufen. Sie haben noch alle Sekundärstoffe, sind dafür jedoch weniger lange haltbar^[17].

Are cosmetics with vegetable oils and fats, better than those without?

Die Frage nach dem „Was ist denn jetzt besser?“ ist zu generell gefragt, schlussendlich kommt es auf jeden selbst an ob oder ob nicht. Fakt ist, dass Kosmetika mit Pflanzenölen, anstelle von Mineralölen, verträglicher und um einiges umweltschonender sind. Aus bestimmten Mischungen von Pflanzenölen kann man selbst auf hoch empfindliche Haut optimal eingehen, eine Flexibilität, welche Mineralölkosmetik nicht besitzt^[18]. Möchte man sich selbst, und seiner Umwelt, etwas gutes tun, sind Pflanzenöle eine sehr gute Alternative zu Mineralölen.

Sources:

Wikipedia[1][7][17]

List of the most important trace elements and their uses^{[8][9][10][11][12][13]}

Article on the effects of jojoba oil^[15]

Article on the effects of almond oil^[15]

Article on the effects of coconut oil ^[16]

Contribution to the effects of vegetable oils on the skin and hair^[14][18]

List of the most important vitamins and their benefits^[5][6]

Contribution to the chemistry of triglycerides^[2]

Scientific article on fatty acids^[3][4]

Scientific article on omega-3 fatty acids^[19]