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What are fragrances?

Fragrances are those chemicals that have certain odors, and smell different in different compositions. They are all allergens and irritate the skin. As "perfume", "fragrance", "aroma" and "flavor" these substances are usually called, and we know up to 3000 individual substances, which fall under the category fragrances. They are used in perfumes, scented trees, scented candles and cosmetics. When they spring from nature they are called essential oils.

What are fragrances chemically accurate?

Menthol molecule Fig. 1

Fragrances, or fragrances, are molecules that stimulate different receptors in our nose and therefore smell very differently. They all have molar masses below 300 g / mol, and always consist of a polar, e.g. a hydroxy group, and a non-polar part, e.g. a hydrocarbon chain. Because they are nasally inhaled by us, they are easily volatile, i. E. They evaporate under normal circumstances in part [1]. When we inhale these substances, so-called transmembrane proteins provide, which are responsible for signal transmission under. The smell of a substance depends on which of these proteins stimulates it in combination with each other [2].

Why are they used in cosmetics? 

Fragrances are included in many cosmetics to cover unpleasant odors, or to give a thready product a certain something. In natural cosmetics, they are occasionally included as incidental content or supplement of natural fats and oils. ^[3]

Vanilla planifolia, seasoning vanilla Fig. 2

What are their good, what are their bad qualities?

As the name suggests, fragrances have a certain scent, or a certain odor. For example, Benzaldehyde bitter almond, vanillin vanilla, lemon citrus and menthol mint / menthol. They usually have a good perceptible odor even at minimal concentrations [4]. Some of them occur naturally, as so-called essential oils, and some of them are synthetically produced [5]. They are all irritating and irritating, and can cause allergies with more pronounced symptoms of irritation, redness, irritation and itching. How strong these symptoms are or whether they occur at all depends on the concentration in the product, and the dispositions of the user. Some people are highly resistant to perfumes and have no symptoms. Some have minimal allergic reactions such as redness or itching. And others are very sensitive about fragrances, they react with severe irritation and irritation, as well as with red, sore spots [6]. Also, they can photosensitize the skin, i. The skin becomes more susceptible to light, which can cause pigmentation disorders [7].

How can you recognize fragrances in cosmetics?

Fragrances have as subcategory the allergens. These are 26 substances that have been subjected to extensive testing and have been confirmed to cause allergies, irritation and irritation. They must be noted from a content of 0.001% for leave-on products, and at 0.01% for rinse-off products. Below these limits no noticeable reaction can be assumed^[8].

Are there alternatives ?

No, fragrances have no alternatives, whether in the normal or in natural cosmetics. No known substance replaces the function of these substances without causing many worse side effects. However, it should be said that many people tolerate fragrance as well as problem-free, and have never had any problems with it [9]. For people with allergies, it is important to look at the contents and selectively use products without the problematic allergens, or to leave products with fragrances altogether. It should be said that "perfume free" is not always perfume free. Thus, some fragrances that fulfill a further purpose besides the odor do not qualify as a perfume [10].^[9]. Für Menschen mit Allergien heißt es auf die Inhalte schauen und selektiv Produkte ohne die problematischen Allergene nutzen, oder Produkte mit Duftstoffen gleich ganz weg lassen. Hierzu sei gesagt, dass „parfümfrei“ nicht immer Parfüm frei ist. So sind manche Duftstoffe, welche einen weiteren Zweck neben der Geruchsgebung erfüllen nicht als Parfüm einzustufen^[10].

–

Sources to read:

BfR Statement on Fragrances in Cosmetics ^[8]

Stiftung Warentest Report on fragrance in cosmetics ^[9][10]

Focus Article on perfumes in cosmetics ^[6][9]

Scientific article on membrane proteins ^[2]

Wikipedia ^{[1][3][4][5][7]}

  What is alcohol?

Chemically, the term "alcohol" refers to a superordinate class; it describes the possession of a so-called hydroxide (-OH) group on a residual molecule. The term "alkanols" refers to an organic radical on this -OH group. Basically, there are two distinguishing criteria, the number of organic radicals and the number of hydroxy groups ^[1]

Structural formula of methanol Fig. 1

Here is the difference in organic residues, with:

Strukturformel des Ethanols Abb. 2

• Primary alcohols

• Secondary alcohols

• Tertiary alcohols

And the number of -OH groups and their valence, with:

• Monovalent (ending -ol)

• Divalent (ending -diol)

  

  Structural formula of glycerine Fig. 3

• Trivalent (ending -triol)

Examples of these would be e.g. Methanol for a monohydric, primary alcohol. Isopropanol for a monohydric secondary alcohol. Tert-butanol for a monohydric, tertiary alcohol. Ethanol for a monohydric alcohol. Ethanediol for a dihydric alcohol. And glycerin (glycerol) for a trivalent alcohol^[2]

Also, there are so-called fatty alcohols which have long carbon chains from 8-22C upwards, e.g. the cetyl alcohol with a chain length of 16 carbon atoms.^[3]

Structural formula of tert-butanol Fig. 4

How do alcohols come from?

The production and formation of alcohols varies from alcohol to alcohol. Ethanol is obtained by fermentation of sugar with the aid of the Saccharomyces cerevisiae fungus (yeast fungus) under exclusion of air [4]. Methanol has been converted into wood by the dry distillation of wood, but nowadays more economically by the reforming of natural gas, with carbon dioxide and hydrogen reacting together to form methanol [5]. Isopropanol is obtained by addition of water to propene [6]. Tert-butanol is produced by water addition to isobutene [7]. Ethanediol is prepared by the addition of water to ethylene oxide [8]. And glycerol is obtained as a by-product of biofuel production, but can also be produced by influencing the Saccharomyces cerevisiae fungus instead of ethanol [9]. Most fatty alcohols are made by saponification of waxes. [10]

What do we use alcohols for?

In general, alcohols are used as solvents, including methanol, ethanol, cyclohexanol and glycerol. Depending on their properties, they have many other uses. Ethanol e.g. Highly known as a stimulant, the word "alcohol" usually refers to ethanol, and is present in all alcoholic beverages, from draft beer to high-proof absinthe [11]. Isopropanol is used as a disinfecting, cleaning, defoaming and antifreeze agent [12]. Glycerin is used as antifreeze and lubricant, as well as a moisturizer in cosmetics [13]. Fatty alcohols are used as surfactants. [14]

Particular alcohols in the cosmetics industry are ethanol, glycerol and fatty alcohols. Ethanol is a natural and excellent solvent for oils and fats, it also has a disinfecting effect [15]. Glycerine is a natural carrier and moisturizes [16]. And fatty alcohols are used as surfactants in shampoos and similar cosmetics [17].

What are "good" and what are "bad" alcohols?

Whether good or bad depends heavily on the quantities and the concentration, because: "The quantity makes a thing a poison". As with alcohol, small amounts are not a problem, even healthy. In contrast, larger amounts are harmful [18]. Only the harmful minimum dose counts. For glycerol or propanediol, this is very high, i. That it takes large amounts to become harmful [19]. For example, in ethanol is this moderate, so that a quantity in the range of a few tenths to almost a few hundred milliliters can be harmful [20]. However, under certain thresholds, the positive effects can be exploited without creating negative ones. Thus, ethanol is e.g. taken in very small amounts dermal, amounts that make no difference, and certainly not in the quantities in which ethanol is contained in cosmetics [21]. Methanol has a very low harmful minimum dose, so even 0.1g per kg of body weight are dangerous, and 1g per kg of body weight life threatening [22].

Ethanol is taxed in Germany, in order to escape this enormous cost increase, many producers pay the liquor. The Vergällen happens via the addition of phthalates, which arise from petroleum, and in addition to the damage to the skin can make even impotent. Denatured alcohol can be recognized by the terms "Alcohol denat." And "SD Alcohol".^[23]

However, there are also some manufacturers, especially natural cosmetics, who do not use denatured alcohol, this is referred to as so-called "alcoholic spirit". This alcohol is pure, 96% vol, ethanol^[24].

Are there any non-alcoholic cosmetics?

Yes and no. If a cosmetic article is "non-alcoholic," it means only that it does not contain bad, dehydrating, or otherwise harmful alcohols. It does not mean, however, that no alcohol is included^[25].

Which alcohol-based cosmetics are harmless, and what must be respected?

Generally, be careful what you buy. When buying, pay special attention to the ingredients and their INCI name. Products with "Alcohol denat." And "SD Alcohol" should be avoided. Glycerol and propanediol are safe and give a good, healthy, skin feel. Ethanol with the designation "ethanol" or "ethyl alcohol" is largely harmless, but its concentrations vary from producer to producer, but is dispensed sparingly by high costs. And fatty alcohols such as cetyl alcohol are generally harmless.^[26]

Sources to read:

Statement zu Phtalaten des Bayrischem Bundesamts für Gesundheit und Lms ^[23]

Informationen zu Methanolvergiftungen^[22]

Informationen zum Nutzen und den Gefahren von Isopropanol ^[12]

Pharmaartikel zu Weingeist ^[24]

Genaueres zur alkoholischen Gärung ^[4]

Genauere Beschreibung der Methanolherstellung ^[5]

Alkoholgehälter von verschiedenen Getränken ^[11]

Wikipedia^{[1][2][3][6][7][8][9][10][11][13][14][15][16][17][21][18][19][20][25][26]}

Bildquellen: Wikipedia Commons, Flickr. Alle Bildrechte gehen an die Besitzer der Bilder Abb.5 – Felix Triller |cover photo

What are aluminum salts in general?

Aluminum is a metal that we find everywhere today. In the form of foil, as cans for soft drinks and food or as a material in industry and private use. For years it has also been found in the form of metal salts in deodorants and antiperspirants. Antitranspirantien.

What are aluminum salts?

Fig. 1

Metals can undergo ionic bonding by donating one or more electrons to a suitable nonmetal partner. Electromagnetic forces now hold these partners together.^[1] The most commonly used aluminum salt in deodorants is aluminum hydroxychloride (ACH).^[2]

It consists of a mixture of different aluminum salts with the recurring constituents, Al (aluminum), Cl (chlorine) and OH (hydroxide).^[3]

Why are aluminum salts used in deodorants?

ACH prevents excessive perspiration, reliable and long-lasting. It is relatively cheap, easy to dose and therefore has an excellent price-performance ratio. It can be used without limit, and is therefore, with many cosmetics manufacturers, very popular. In addition, there are few alternatives that fulfill this job as well as they do.^[4]

What are the problems with aluminum salts?

ACH acts in two main ways:

1) It extracts moisture from the skin, thus narrowing the sweat channels of the skin

2) It partially denatures the skin's proteins, creating a film over the skin that penetrates and blocks the pores and sweat ducts.

So Aluminum salts are proven to dry out the skin and destroy proteins to counter sweat. ^[5]

Also, ACH is a neurotoxin, which at higher concentrations affects the blood-brain barrier, a natural barrier to central nervous system (CNS) fluid trajectories. It can damage the DNA and affect the activities of genes. ^[6]

In addition, they are in strong suspicion to trigger breast cancer and Alzheimer's, but this is still controversial and it is disputed whether elevated aluminum concentrations in breast cancer tissue as a trigger or even as a by-product.

The fact is, however, that larger amounts of aluminum do not stay in the body and are separated from the kidneys, and then excreted. In humans with renal diseases such as kidney hypofunction, aluminum can accumulate in the body.^[9]

Are there natural and harmless alternatives?

Yes and at the same time no. There are some competitors who are harmless and gentle, but do not work comparably well with ACH. However, compromises must be made, and one's own health preceded by a slightly better performance. [9] ^[9]

As alternatives, there are deodorants, which reduce the acidic environment by basic minerals, and thus the growth of bacteria, and thus malodour. They also partially protect against sweat leakage. But also natural oils and extracts such as grape, coriander, pomegranate or sage help to suppress odors. With fats and waxes, such as berries and beeswax, cocoa, and shea butter, excessive sweating can be avoided, at least for the most part. [10] ^[10]

–

Sources to read:

Stiftung Warentest for testing deodorants with and without aluminum salts^[4]

BfR statement on increased uptake of aluminum via deodorants^[9]

Study on increasing Alzheimer's risk by aluminum uptake^[7]

Description of risk factors of aluminum salt containing cosmetics^[5][6][7]

Wikipedia^{[1][2][3][8][10]}

What are surfactants actually?

The word "surfactant" comes from the Latin "tensus" and means tension. Because, in general, they reduce the surface tension or interfacial tension of liquids so much that dispersions become possible or easier.

You can represent one of four types^[1]:

1. Nonionic surfactants

2. Anionic surfactants

3. Cationic surfactants

4. Amphoteric surfactants

How do surfactants work and how are they structured?

Surfactants are always the same, regardless of their type. They have a hydrophilic (water loving) head and a lipophilic (fat loving) body. In chemistry, the principle that "like dissolves in like", i. Due to their molecular structure, fats dissolve in fats and fat-like substances, they are also said to be non-polar. While water is polar and dissolves polar substances.^[2] Surfactants have both polarities, they are in fat, as soluble in water. By this ability one can e.g. Dissolve sunflower oil in water by adding the right surfactant. However, the two liquids do not "dissolve" into one another, they merely become easier to mix and no longer separate into separate layers.^[3] The polarity is due to the difference in electronegativity (how much the atoms want to absorb electrons). If this is not very large (e.g., C-H) then an atom is nonpolar. However, if this difference is quite large (e.g., O-H), then the atom is polarized.^[4]

A visualization of the functionality of surfactants:

On display are the polar heads (in red with a minus to represent the polarity), with their nonpolar, fat-soluble tails. They surround an area of ​​oil (non-polar) with their tails directed to the oil, and dip their heads into the aqueous phase (polar). Fig. 1

What are the differences between the types of surfactants?

Type 1: nonionic surfactants. These are those surfactants which do not consist of anions and cations, but act on certain functional groups. With them, the electronegativities of the atoms are so great that they are very polar. Such nonionic surfactants usually have several -O- (ether) or -OH (hydroxide) groups. Most surfactants of this type are difficult to degrade or have harmful degradation products. It has been trying for some time to avoid it^[5]

Type 2: anionic surfactants. Such surfactants are usually acid-base salts of carboxylic acids and strong lyes or sulfate salts of fatty alcohols. They consist of a charged head and a lipophilic body / tail. Anionic surfactants are often contained in organic, so-called core, and lubricating soaps. These are biodegradable and mainly gentle on the skin. Sulphate Saline surfactants, however, can greatly irritate the skin.^[6]

Type 3: cationic surfactants. These are quaternary ammonium salts, which are a bit more complicated. With them, all four valence electrons of nitrogen are bound with one carbon. These conditions give the nitrogen a positive charge which is balanced by a suitable anion (negatively charged particle). These surfactants are biologically well degradable and have as far as possible no negative effects on the skin^[7]

Type 4: Amphoteric surfactants. They contain both a positively charged nitrogen cation and a negatively charged carboxylic acid anion or a negatively charged sulfate anion. These are compensated separately by their charge ratio. The ammonium (N⁺+) is balanced by a cation (e.g., Cl^–-). And the carboxylic acid or sulfate through a cation (e.g., Na⁺+). These charges contribute to a polarity which acts in both directions, a so-called zwitterion. These surfactants are extremely skin tolerant if they are a -COOH group, less so if they have a sulphate group.^[8]

Why are surfactants used in cosmetics at all?

In cosmetics, different active substances, carrier substances and bodying agents are often used. These are often not soluble in each other. Creams are designed to distribute active ingredients on the skin, and require a certain consistency, which can not be created without surfactants. Fluids and serums are designed to concentrate highly concentrated active ingredients, and are best absorbed quickly, in contrast to creams, which are mostly intended to protect and stay on the skin for a longer period of time. Shampoos, toothpaste and soaps are said to purify, condition and refresh, surfactants combine their basic active ingredients, but in addition they serve to remove fat and sebum from the skin and hair, in shampoos and soaps, as well as grind and deposits on the teeth, in Toothpastes, eliminate. Here they bind the, normaly, non-water-soluble particles with water, making it easier to remove them. Without surfactants, cosmetics like we know them would not exist with all their benefits, remedies and improvements.

An unwanted foam bath, due to the escape of extinguishing foam at an airport Fig. 3

Why is there "good" and "bad" within the surfactants?

To say something is only good or bad is very short, and often wrong. Everything has its good and bad sides, our job is to assess the value and balance of these attributes. Has a lot of good sides, but a bad bad, in which one would have to compromise, so is looking for an alternative. Such alternatives are often found in nature, but not always. The highest principle is health and tolerability, in which no compromises are made. Following these two aspects, compromises are made against diminished performance. Or simply to love the health, we renounced to outrageous benefits.

Where you can say no and why?

Surfactants have some aspects as shown above, which also have some effects and side effects. The type 1 surfactants are often poorly biodegradable and more skin tolerant. With the exception of the polysorbate alkylglucoside, which is derived from sugarcane derivatives. The polyalkylene glycol ether e.g. belongs to one of the more dominant nonionic surfactants, the fatty alcohol ethoxylates. They are made using ethylene oxide, which is a descendant of the petroleum industry. [9] Those of type 2 are moderately to good skin-friendly, and biodegradable, with the exception of sulfates, which are very skin incompatible, and not only damage sensitive skin, but can also cause irritation and allergies in people without a history. The Type 3 are difficult to biodegrade, and moderately tolerated by the skin. And those of type 4 are well tolerated by the skin and moderately biodegradable. [11] What to look out for is that you can not make a precise difference between natural and synthetic. Many of these products are considered natural because they occur as such or their educts are of natural origin. One should watch what is sold as natural, because not everything is natural is also always good. Of course, sulfate salt surfactants are harmful in the long run.

Why are sulfate surfactants used at all?

Sulfate surfactants have excellent properties, sometimes foaming and the generation of stable dispersions. They are relatively cheap and can also be used in so-called "hard water" without losing their efficiency as the e.g. Sodium salt surfactants do. The trace elements in water, magnesium and calcium form insoluble salts that have no surfactant properties and can also deposit as lime.^[13]

What is the problem with sulfate surfactants?

Sulfate surfactants are irritating, irritating and they can cause allergies. They not only remove grease and dirt, but also healthy skin, making them more susceptible and permeable. Also, these types of surfactants affect the proteins of the skin by denaturing them, i. The proteins, which are long chains of hydrocarbons, amino acids, carboxylic acids as well as sulfates and sulfides, are composed in very precise forms, which is done by intermolecular forces. These forces can be overcome by environmental influences, and thus the protein can be deformed. [14] The best example is a common fried egg, in which the proteins of the liquid and transparent albumen are deformed by heat, and thus become solid and opaque protein. These processes are often difficult to undo, so it is not possible for a chef to "fry" an egg. Chemically it is possible, and our body does it, but this process takes time. [15] The resulting problem is simply explained. Our body is a finely tuned machine, and largely robust against environmental influences. However, for a normal and controlled process many components must harmonize with each other. A deformed protein is like a broken piece in a puzzle, it can not work properly and this whole process is disturbed, such. Supplying the skin with nutrients, or defense against pathogens. This makes the skin more susceptible to redness and irritation.

Why do we only use sulfate-free surfactants?

Ihre irritierenden Eigenschaften und Langzeit Beeinflussung der Haut finden in qualitativer Kosmetik wenig Begeisterung, zumal es viele Alternativen aus der Natur gibt, welche sehr ähnliche positive Aspekte besitzen, und um einiges Verträglicher für die Haut sind. Ebenfalls werden derartige Tenside nicht so gut von der Umwelt abgebaut wie solche, welche der Natur entspringen.^[16] Alkylglucoside aus Zuckerrohr oder natürliche Natriumsalze der Fettsäuren von natürlichen Fetten wie Kokosfett, Kakao- und Sheabutter z.B., um ein paar davon zu nennen.

References to the source:

Information on sulfates in cosmetics ^{[13][15][5][6]}

More about sodium lauryl sulfate ^[10][12]

Denaturation of Proteins Explained ^[15]

Wikipedia ^{[1][2][3][4][7][8][9][11][14][16]}

^{Quellen: Wikipedia}