Archive for category: Articles

What are glucocorticoids?

Glucocorticoids (GCC for short) are steroid hormones that our body produces in the adrenal cortex. It fulfills many important purposes in the body and is found too often in medicines and partly in cosmetics^[1].

What are GCC chemically and what do they do in the body?

GCC are steroid hormones, ie analogues to hormones. The "Gluco" in their name is due to their use in glucose metabolism. In doing so, they contribute to the breakdown of protein (proteins) into glucose, thus they are protein-splitting hormones. They affect the metabolism, water and electrolyte balance, the cardiovascular and the nervous system, they also have anti-inflammatory and immunosuppressive, i. Suppressing immune system reaction. Cortisone and cortisol are among the most important of these GCCs, with cortisone being the inactive form of cortisol^[2].

Why are they in medicines and cosmetics?

GCC have strong anti-inflammatory properties, which is why they are used in ointments and tablets. For example, Cortisone used against swelling, inflammation and diseases such as hives^[3].

Are there any side effects?

With short, personally adjusted quantity prescription no side effects are to be expected. Short overdose can cause dizziness, headache, depression or psychosis. Prolonged use of overdoses can lead to more severe symptoms such as osteoporosis, increased blood sugar levels, or even impotence. After a longer intake, one should not suddenly stop taking the preparation, because the body has put down its own production or even turned it off completely and needs a certain amount of time to normalize it again^[4].

Are there any alternatives for the topical application?

For products with topical application, so creams, ointments and the same, there are some alternatives for the treatment of swelling, redness, irritation and itching, so the body's natural defense functions. For example, Extracts of marigold, sea buckthorn, aloe vera and propolis. There is also the Bromelain, an extract of enzymes from the pineapple, which, similar to cortisone, decomposes proteins^[5].

1. Marigold: The Marigold is used both internally and externally against ulcers and injuries. Burns, wounds, redness, irritation and more are quickly cured by marigold extracts.

This is mainly due to high levels of flavonoids, up to 0.9%, various saponoids, essential oils from sesquiterpenes, triterpenes, coumarins and polysaccharides^[6].

2. Seabuckthorn: Sea buckthorn looks great internally and externally. It boosts the regeneration and healing of wounds, and its anti-inflammatory properties make itching and redness go away quickly. However, the oil and pulp are very expensive as the fruits grow on bushes densely covered with thorns.

Diese Effekte sind den Inhaltsstoffen zu danken, so mit unter hohen Mengen an Vitamin C, B, E und A. Ebenfalls enthält es viele Mineralstoffe wie Eisen, Magnesium und Kalium^[7].

3. Aloe Vera: Everyone has heard of the wonder drug Aloe Vera, the desert lily. It heals wounds, insect bites and sunburns through its antibacterial and cooling effect. It also protects the body from parasites, fungi and bacteria from within.

The reason is not surprising, with over 200 active ingredients such as vitamins, enzymes, minerals and amino acids, Aloe Vera is prepared for anything^[8].

4. Propolis: Not for the vegan lifestyle, but a true marvel of wildlife. Propolis is a bee product and can be freely translated to "out of town" or "for the city". Bees use it to keep fungi, bacteria and viruses out of their sticks. It has anti-inflammatory, antiviral, antibacterial and antifungal effects and is therefore a miracle cure for wound healing.

For this, the bees work rather hard though. They collect resins from trees, mostly conifers, store them in pollen sacs, and mix it with wax and pollen [9].^[9].

5. Bromelain: Bromelain findet sich in der Ananas, und wird häufig gegen starke Schwellungen eingesetzt. Es ist ein Enzymgemisch, welches es vermag Eiweiß zu spalten (ähnlich dem Cortisol). Durch diese Eigenschaft kann es bei Entzündungen eingesetzt werden, sowohl als auch durch seine Beeinflussung auf die Blutgerinnung, Schwellungen und Ödeme nach Operationen vermindern. Manche Menschen haben allergische Reaktionen auf Bromelain, und sollten es deshalb nicht zu sich nehmen^[10].

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Sources:

Wikipedia^[1][3]

Professional article on cortisone in medicine^[2][4]

Article about marigold^[6]

Article about sea buckthorn^[7]

Article about aleo vera^[8]

Article about propolis^[9]

Article about bromelain^[10]

What is a perm?

A perm is the chemical transformation process to make curls or waves in straight hair, or on the contrary, to smooth curly and wavy hair. The current method was invented around 1906.^[1].

What happens to the hair?

Externally, the hair itself consists of many very thin threads of keratin, which in itself, three long chains of amino acids, swirls in a triple helix. These are held within the chains by certain forces and bonds in their form. These compounds and the resulting forms are genetically determined. The two major compounds that hold these forms are hydrogen bonds and disulfide bonds, where the hydrogen bonds are pure interactions but not chemical bonds. The so-called hair dryer wave is achieved only with water, a real perm over chemical methods. In the hair dryer wave, the water breaks the hydrogen bonds, thus loosening up the hair. The heat of the hair dryer now evaporates the water, and the hair takes on the styled shape. By an internal tension of the hair, they recede very quickly, by combing, blow-drying and washing, into their original form. In a perm, the hair proteins, so the keratin, "denatured". Denaturing means a protein that has solid forms to work, to deform. This is done by the influence of chemicals or by heat, so when cooking an egg, the proteins are denatured in the egg, which is why this hard. In the hair, the disulfide bridges of keratin, more specifically the amino acid cysteine ​​as part of keratin, are split. This is done by thioglycolic acid and its salts. Hair loosening preparations usually include a pH stabilizer, e.g. Ammoniumhydrogencarbonat, which sets a pH of 7.5-9, ie an acidic pH, some emulsifiers and surfactants, and the thioglycolic acid. Subsequently, with an oxidizing agent, usually hydrogen peroxide, the disulfide bridges are restored, and thus brought back strength in the hair [2].

How does the perm process work?

First, with a preparation containing a pH stabilizer, some emulsifiers and surfactants, and cysteine ​​(thioglycolic acid only rarely, as cysteine ​​is gentler), the hair is loosened up. This process lasts between 10 and 30 minutes, but can be cured by heat, e.g. be accelerated by a heat hood. Subsequently, the hair is thoroughly washed to get rid of cysteine ​​residues. After washing, the hair is brought into shape, and with an oxidizing agent, here usually hydrogen peroxide given strength again. In contrast to the hair dryer wave, a permanent wave lasts a much longer time, but will also return by an internal tension in the hair, and by frequent washing, blow drying and combing the original shape of the hair^[3].

Are there any problems or consequences due to perms?

Yes there is. The thioglycolic acid namely decomposes at elevated temperatures to hydrogen sulphide (SH2) and sulfur oxides (S2O, SO2, SO3), which are highly toxic, also produces ammonia, which can lead as a gas in the long term to severe lungs and eye damage. If you do not fit here with the dryer hood, this can have serious consequences. In addition, the hydrogen peroxide attacks the hair pigment, and is therefore used for bleaching. The permanent wave itself does not cause hair damage (which is not wanted, such as destroying the melanin when bleaching) [4].

Source:

Wikipedia^[1][4]

Article on the return of perm^[3]

Articles on perm - types, duration, mode of action ^[2]

What are peptides?

Peptides are substances that consist of amino acids linked to peptide compounds. They are found in every organism and make up all proteins^[1].

What are peptides chemically?

Peptides consist of amino acids, which are connected to each other by peptide bonds. Peptide bonds arise when two or more amino acids form an amide via their amine (NH2) and carboxyl (COOH) with elimination of water. Organisms may form peptides with L-form amino acids, since these are genetically encoded in the tRNA for production. They can be subdivided further, so are peptides up to an amino acid number of 10 so-called oligopeptides, up to one of 100 polypeptides and from 100 amino acids in a chain macropeptides. In addition, there are glyco- and lipoproteins, to each of which sugar or fats are bound. Ring-shaped peptides are called cyclopeptides and also form a subgroup. The macropeptides are also called proteins, where proteins have the property to fall away and to find in certain forms together^[2].

What is their job in the body?

In the body, the peptides have many tasks. In addition to the synthesis of proteins, they also have properties such as e.g. have anti-inflammatory or pro-inflammatory activity, act as hormones, and they have antimicrobial, antimicrobial and antiviral properties^[3].

How are they made?

In the body, ribosomes help to produce proteins. Here, long chains of peptides are synthesized on them, which then unfold. In this way, selectively certain sequences can be produced. Synthetically this is not so easy. In the laboratory e.g. these ribosomes are missing, and the auxiliary enzymes that form the correct sequences. Therefore, in addition to the gewüschtem product also a variety of by-products. In order to obtain specific peptides and sequences, one uses either certain substances as a "protecting group" or enzymes that prevent the synthesis of by-products^[4].

What are you doing in cosmetics?

Peptides are often used in cosmetics, and advertised as anti-aging miracles. They are intended to reduce wrinkles, and thus ensure a smoother skin. They are synthetically produced and therefore mainly used in conventional, but not in natural cosmetics. Their effects have been studied only partially, but make a good impression on a proper mode of action^[5].

Sources:

Wikipedia^{[1][2][3][4][5]}

Article on peptides in cosmetics^[5]

  What are phospholipids?

Phospholipids are fats (Lipids lat. Lipos - fat), with a phosphate group (PO4). They make up a large part of every cell, and belong to the polar lipids [1].

What are phospholipids chemical?

Phospholipids are long chains of hydrocarbons, the fats, each of which is populated with a phosphate part that acts as a head. They are natural surfactants, with a nonpolar tail and a polar head. As a result, they dissolve in fats and water. There are three subcategories:

- phosphoglycerides; They are phospholipids with a glycerol backbone

- sphingomyelin; They are sphingolipids with a phosphate group

- plasmalogens; You have an unsaturated alcohol instead of a fatty acid. They make up 50% of the phospholipids of the heart, and 10% of the central nervous system. Their exact function is not yet clear^[2].

What is their job in the body ?

They occur in the form of biomembranes in different ways. For example, they may be micelles, globular structures in which the lipophilic taillets point inwards, and the heads externally. Another way for them to form biomembranes is in the form of lipid bilayers. These are found in every cell and make their walls. Here are each a row together which with the head down, and another which the head upwards stretches. They can also form so-called liposomes. Liposomes are globular lipid bilayers, in which the polar heads are stretched inwards and outwards, and between them lie the nonpolar taillets. Phospholipids are responsible for the typical membrane structure. It is also very likely that they will be used as biomarkers for cancer treatment in the future^[3]. 

Do you also find phospholipids in cosmetics?

Yes, as so-called lecithins. Lecithins are derived from soya and are phospholipids composed of fatty acids, glycerine, phosphoric acid and choline. They occur in human, animal and plant membranes. It is essential for the formation of biomembranes and is an important component of lipid metabolism. It consists of a phospholipid, which has choline as binding partner to the phosphate. Choline is a so-called quaternary ammonium compound which carries a positive charge on the nitrogen. This property makes it a zwitterionic surfactant. Lecithin finds e.g. in the food industry, as a baking ingredient, for the production of sticky doughs or as consistency in chocolate application. In cosmetics, they are used because of their moisturizing and pH regulating properties. They thus support the skin's natural protective coating, and its high content of linoleic and linolenic acid counteracts skin diseases^[4].

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Quelle:

Wikipedia^[1][2][3]

Article on lecithin and genetic engineering^[4]

What is microplastic?

As a microplastic called plastic particles smaller than 5mm. They are difficult to biodegrade and are abundant^[1].

How does microplastics come about and what are its properties?

Microplasticity is caused by embrittlement of plastic, by UV rays, and its mechanical abrasion. However, they are also produced intentionally, e.g. For cosmetics, such as toothpaste and shower gel. Their characteristics are the sculptures they spring from, i.a. Polyethylene (PE) and polypropylene (PP). However, they share some properties, e.g. their poor biodegradability, and their adsorption capabilities (the ability to accumulate other substances). Microplastic arises, according to a Lower Saxony declaration, with the three main origins, from rubber tires abrasion, production and transport losses and artificial turf abrasion. They also occur in food, by abrasion of plastic packaging, but also seemingly plastic-free containers such as glass have u.a. Plastic lubricants on [2].

Why is microplastic a problem?

Microplastic is not toxic to humans, which is why it is allowed (or was in countries), but it is harmful to the environment. It is very difficult to biodegrade and can therefore persist for a long time in the environment and in fish. Due to its adsorbing abilities, the plastic causes bacteria and toxins, which are carried along with it. It triggers stomach irritation and a lower energy budget in lugworms, which means that they no longer carry so many nutrients to the surface. Bacteria also settle on them, which, if they come in water treatment plants, can lead to serious problems for the water supply. Steps were taken against microplastics following the G-20 meeting in June 2017. The use of microplastics in cosmetics has been banned in the US since July 2017, and the UK is the first European legislator to ban it in toothpaste and shower gel. The federal government has been calling for a European ban for some time [3].

Why is there microplastic in cosmetics?

In cosmetics microplastics is used as consistency regulator. They give the product a certain smoothness and a good feeling on the skin. They are also used because of their mechanical properties as particles in peels, this they should remove coarse dirt from the skin by removing it, and scrub the skin a little coarser.^[4]

Are there alternatives to microplastics?

Yes, it does, for a long time, biowaxes, e.g. The Cernauba wax, used in cosmetics. It comes from the Cernaubapalme, which grows in Brazil, has a yellowish color, is hard and brittle, and possesses the highest melting point of all natural waxes with 80-87 ° C. In addition, it contains no fragrances, which is important for allergy sufferers^[4].

Sources:

Wikipedia^[1][4]

Report on the effects of microplastics on lugworms^[3][4]

Federal article on microplastics^[2][3]