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What are metals?

Metals are a group of elements that share very specific properties. Such are e.g. Their high electrical conductivity and thermal conductivity, their relatively good ductility and metallic sheen^[1]. 

Why are metals like they are?

In contrast to all other elements, metal atoms have no fixed places for electrons. They have a so-called lattice structure in which their nuclei (equipped with protons and neutrons) have fixed places, but their electrons are freely movable (also called delocalized). Electricity is only the movement of the electrons in the material, and their freedom to move determines the conductivity of materials (this is described by the quantum mechanical band model). Likewise, thermal energy is only the movement of particles at a certain interval, which also has to do with the free mobility of the electrons in metals. In addition, these electrons can also emit radiation of any wavelength up to the X-ray radiation, which explains its brilliance^[2].

Which metals are suitable for cosmetics?

Suitable metals are all alkali, alkaline earth, and transition metals in question. These are:

Aluminum, beryllium, bismuth, lead, cadmium, chromium, iron, gallium, gold, indium, iridium, potassium, cobalt, calcium, copper, magnesium, manganese, molybdenum, sodium, nickel, osmium, palladium, platinum, mercury, rhodium, Ruthenium, silver, tantalum, titanium, uranium, vanadium, tungsten, zinc, tin and zirconium to name the most important.

You can exclude:

Lead, cadmium, nickel, mercury, beryllium, cobalt and vanadium, as they are toxic, and uranium because it is radioactive.

Also:

Indium, iridium, rhodium, ruthenium, tantalum, palladium and platinum, since these are extremely rare. Gold and silver too, but not so rare

The rest are therefore:

Aluminum, bismuth, chromium, iron, gallium, gold, potassium, copper, magnesium, manganese, molybdenum, sodium, osmium, silver, titanium, tungsten, zinc, tin, potassium, calcium and zirconium.

Aluminum(Al)	Bismuth(Bi)	Chromium(Cr)	Iron(Fe)	Gold (Au)	Potassium (K)	Magnesium(Mg)
- Third most common metal - Occurs rarely as a pure element -Good conductor -Light metal -Slight toxicity for humans	-Slightly radioactive -Does occur as a pure element -Bad conductor -Has the strongest "Hall-Effect"	-Only occurs as a pure element rarely -Chromium3+ is thought to be involved in the metabolism of carbohydrates	-Very common element -Rarely as a pure element -Essential for humans -Moderately good conductor	-Quite rare -Occurs mostly as a pure element, as it is quite unreactive -Very soft -Very good conductor -Is used colloidally in medicine	-Only occurs naturaly as a cation - Doesnt have any significant uses as a pure element -Essential for humans	-Doesnt occur as a pure element -Is quite lightweight -Essential for humans
Manganese(Mn)	Molybdenum(Mo)	Sodium(Na)	Osmium(Os)	Silver(Ag)	Titanium(Ti)	Wolfram(W)
-Quite common element -Doesnt occur as a pure element -Essential for humans -Acts as a neurotoxin	-Very hard -Essential for humans	-Quite common -Doesnt occur as a pure element -Quite lightweight and soft -Essential for humans	-Very rare element -Occurs naturally because of its unreactivenes -Very expensive -Has the highest density of any element -Doesnt have any industriall use	-Rare, yet about 20 times more common than gold -The single best conductor -Very soft -Acts antibacterial in colloidal form -Accumulative poison	-Very common metal -Forms a very resiliant oxide layer	-Highest melting and boilingpoint of any element -chemically resistant to most things
Zinc(Zn)	Zink(Sn)	Calcium(Ca)	Zirconium(Zr)	Gallium(Ga)	Copper (Cu)	[3]
-Quite common -Unreactive due to an oxide layer -Essential for humans	-Quite common -Unreactive due to an oxide layer -Non-toxic even in high concentrations	-Quite soft -Very common element -Essential for humans	-Quite common -Quite soft -Unreactive due to an oxide layer - Non-toxic even in higher concentrations	- Quite rare - Doesnt occur as a pure element -Very low melting point - Acts irritating on skin, eyes and respiratory system	- Quite common element - Acts antibacterial -Second best conductor -Occurs as a pure element

Now, one must remember that many metals are usually not kept as metals, but are found by environmental influences or their own reactivity as compounds. Accordingly, such compounds are no longer metals and must be excluded. Even oxide layers, thin layers of metal oxide, which surround the metal are excluded, since this oxide layer reduce their intrinsic properties and reactivity. The following are left over: iron, gold, magnesium, molybdenum, osmium, silver, tungsten, copper and chromium.

In addition, these metals are used as powders and not as solid blocks or sticks in cosmetics, and therefore some of these metals precipitate again because they are more reactive in powder form. Thus remain: gold, molybdenum, osmium, silver, tungsten and copper. Already used are gold and silver nanoparticles, where silver has an antibacterial effect and gold is used against mental illness [4]. Molybdenum, has some important functions in the organism, and is therefore essential, but a deficiency is very rare, and almost never occurs, which is why an addition via the skin is unnecessary [5]. Osmium is a precious metal, and in addition to its rarity also to win a lot. There are virtually no applications, except for luxury items such as fountain pens or record player needles [6]. Tungsten is very resistant to environmental influences, and even strong acids and bases are unable to dissolve it [7]. Because of this, tungsten is largely excreted again, and has no physiological effect [8]. Chromium is under discussion to play a role in the carbohydrate utilization of humans, but this has not yet been proven [9]. A metal that is particularly in the eyes of the cosmetics industry, is the copper. It has antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties, it also promotes collagen and elastin binding in connective tissue, which reduces wrinkles and makes the skin smoother and leveler. In addition, it is intended to help against gray hair by helping to produce color pigments, e.g. in melanin [10].

What is the conclusion?

There are many metals, some were not even discussed. And they have many different properties. Some are essential, and people can not live without them, and others are completely poisonous or deadly. Gold, silver and copper as metals, whether as nanoparticles or not, can really help the body.

Sources:

Wikipedia^{[1][2][6][7][8][10]}

Article on the application of colloidal gold ^[4]

Article on the application of colloidal silver ^[4]

Article on some important trace elements ^[3][5][9]

Bildquellen: Wikimedia Commons, Flickr. Die Bildrechte gehen and die Besitzer der Bilder.

What are glycols?

Glycols are so-called dihydric alcohols, more specifically under the name 1,2-diols. They are characterized by two hydroxide groups, and have different uses and uses^[1].

What are glycols chemically?

The diols all have very low freezing points of -14 to -55 ° C, are usually slightly to strongly viscous, form explosive vapor-air mixtures, smell and taste sweet and have good dissolving and lubricating properties. They are characterized by two -OH groups, which makes them dihydric alcohols (di - two | -ol suffix for alcohols). They are made into polymers in the chemical industry because of their two -OH groups. Most glycols are toxic and have neurotoxic (neurotoxin) and nephrotoxic (renal toxin) degradation products, such as. Glycolic acid and oxalic acid^[2].

What are glycols used for?

Glycols are used as antifreeze, coolants and deicers because of their low freezing points. They are also used as hydraulic fluids, solvents and emulsifiers in chemistry and as washing raw materials. For example, also ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, with ethylene glycol being largely replaced by its high toxicity by propylene glycol^[3].

Why are glycols in cosmetics?

In cosmetics, glycols are mostly used, due to their viscosity and polarity, as emulsifiers, or carriers for antioxidants, odors or active ingredients. Often, propylene glycol and polyproylene glycol are in use because they master these tasks and are relatively non-toxic^[4].

What is the problem with glycols in cosmetics?

Polypropylene glycol (PEG) makes the skin more permeable, for active ingredients and pollutants. It can help as well and hurt, which is why it is criticized. However, since it is not itself toxic, it is considered acceptable to most manufacturers and authorities. PEG can cause allergies by making the skin more permeable, it helps active ingredients to penetrate the body, but also pushes unwanted substances into the body, and that for a longer time than the cosmetic product works [5].

Are there alternatives ?

Existing alternatives do not yet exist, due to the propylene glycol, which has a very low toxicity, with all the sought after properties. It can be used as a substitute for polyethylene glycol, which makes the skin more permeable. It can also be derived from corn, is 100% biodegradable, irritates and does not redden, and does not disturb the immune system or the skin barrier^[6].

Sources:

Wikipedia^[1][2][3]

Scientific article for the production of propylene glycol^[6]

Article about propylene glycol in cosmetics^[4]

Article about Polyethylene Glycol^[5]

What is Ectoin?

Ectoin is a substance that is found in many bacteria, especially in large proportions in the so-called halophilic (salt-loving) species. It protects these bacteria against extreme conditions such as UV radiation, high salt concentrations or temperature fluctuations^[1].

What is Ectoin chemically ?

Ectoin is a so-called cyclic amino acid, i. It is a ring shaped amino acid. Dissolved as zwitterion, the carboxylic acid being negatively charged and one of the nitrogens positively charged. This property accounts for most of the effects of Ectoin. It has a strong hydratating effect, which is transferred to surrounding molecules, so u.a. on biopolymers such as proteins and the DNA. It does not bind itself, nor does it enter the cell itself, which does not interfere with metabolism^[2].

What are properties of Ectoin?

The Ectoin moisturizes through hydration, and stabilizes the structures of biopolymers. It is produced by fermentation (Fermantativ), with the help of Halomonas elongata bacteria. It is used in medicine for irritation and inflammation of the skin and mucous membranes to relieve them. It is also used in cosmetics to protect the skin from stress-related damage, e.g. UV radiation, drought or fine dust to protect. People with ectoin hypersensitivity should avoid using ectoin, otherwise side effects may occur with the exact opposite effect, including: strong burning on the skin. In biochemistry, ectoine is also used to obtain proteins, nucleic acids and other biopolymers [3].

What do ecto-containing cosmetics do and are they really helpful?

Kosmetika mit Ectoin können Falten mindern, und die Entstehung neuer vermeiden. Sie spendet der Haut Feuchtigkeit und schützt sie vor Umwelteinflüssen. Ebenfalls lindert Ectoin Hautreizungen und Entzündungen, ganz ohne in den Stoffwechsel einzugreifen. Jedoch sollten Menschen mit Ectoin Überempfindlichkeit Kosmetika mit Ectoin meiden. So empfiehlt sich vorab zu klären ob man eine solche Überempfindlichkeit aufweist, bevor man Ectoinhaltige Kosmetika verwendet. Weist man eine solche Überempfindlichkeit nicht auf, so hat Ectoin quasi keine Nachteile^[4].

Sources:

Wikipedia[1][4]

Scientific article on the cell-protecting properties of Ectoin^[2][3]

What are phytosterols?

Phytosterols or phytosterols are substances of the sterol group. They occur exclusively as esters and glucosides in plants, and their richest parts are fat. Structurally they resemble cholesterol, which is present in all humans and animals^[1].

What are the chemical properties of phystosterols?

Phytosterols belong to the group of sterols, which is a subgroup of steroids. They are all so-called polycyclic (poly-multiple / cyclic-ring) molecules, where the phytosterols are alcohols. They are similar to cholesterol, as well as the sex hormones testosterone and estrogen. It occurs only in plants (phyto - vegetable), and there in the fat-rich parts, such as the seeds^[2].

What are the properties and uses of phytosterols?

Phytosterols are used to lower blood cholesterol levels, while stimulating the production of cholesterol, increasing the total amount in the body, but binding it down, which lowers the cholesterol concentration in the blood. As a negative effect, phytosterols may inhibit the absorption of fat soluble vitamins (e.g., A and E), which should prevent pregnant women, nursing women, children up to 5 years, and those with phytosterinemia from phytosterols. Phytosterols are also used medically to reduce skin irritation and itching. The most common phytosterol we ingest through diet is β-sitosterol at 65%. In cosmetics they are used as emulsifier [3]

What is cholesterol and what does it do?

Cholesterol is an important component of the cell membrane, it increases its strength and helps to guide messenger substances into the cell and out of the cell. The body also converts cholesterol to the sex hormones estrogen and testosterone. The body produces 90% of its cholesterol itself. Increased cholesterol levels can lead to heart attacks and gallstones, so a balanced diet is important to keep cholesterol levels at a healthy level. It has long been investigated whether low cholesterol levels are responsible for a higher degree of violence, poorer memory, increased levels of stress and also the frequency of nightmares^[4].

Sources:

Wikipedia^[1]

Report on the errors of cholesterol^[4]

Scientific article of the Institute of Nutritional Physiology on phytosterols^[2][3]

 

What are ceramides?

Ceramides are a subgroup of sphingolipids, and they make up our double lipid layer. It has different types, of which the ceramide I type accounts for most of the horny layer, the outermost layer of skin^[1].

What are ceramides chemically?

Ceramides consist of four parts, sphingosine as a "head", a fatty acid as a "base", an amide as a linker and a residue in place of a hydroxide group on sphingosine. This residue can be a hydrogen - ceramide, a saccharide - glycosphingolipid, or a phosphocholine - sphingomyeline. Ceramide I is a fatty acid that binds linoleic acid as a fatty acid, so it has a lack of this fatty acid with a sub-production of ceramide I, and thus an imbalance in the horny layer, serious consequences for health and skin appearance. In addition, it strengthens the hair structure by better bonding the dandruff of the hair strands^[2]. 

This double-lipid layer keeps foreign bodies from penetrating the body and also protects the skin from drying out. Ceramides are formed by first sphingosine with serine and an acyl-CoA, produced by the coenzyme A, it follows the amide esterification with a fatty acid to ceramide. The three best known types of ceramide can be determined by the inclusion angle (α) of the two chains. For example, α = 0 ° Type A, 0 ° <α <180 ° Type B and α = 180 ° Type C. The sphigosine base and the degree of hydroxylation of the Fatty acid decide the further name [3]. The ceramides also play a role in the mode of action of antidepressants [4].

Why are they in cosmetics?

If the body does not produce enough ceramide in the skin, it will cause it to dry out, as well as hypersensitivity (atopic dermatitis) or psoriasis. Ceramide I added to cosmetics can balance this balance of the skin and protect it from the effects of missing ceramide^[5].

Sources:

Wikipedia^[1][5]

Scientific article on ceramides in dermatology^[2][3]

Scientific article on ceramides in neuroscience^[4]

Image sources: Wikimedia Commons, Flickr. All image rights go to the owners of the images.